Expecting man-sized drills, mannequins wearing headlamps and history lessons in dark spaces, Kate Hennessy is pleasantly surprised to visit a quirky mining museum run by a Broken Hill born and bred couple. One afternoon in 1971, Kevin “Bushy” White, then a miner with Zinc Corporation, came home and said a curious thing. “It’s dark down there, Betty, but it’s beautiful,” he told his wife. The ...
Garage sales are a Saturday tradition in Broken Hill, a town with a more than a few hoarders. When Kate Hennessy enters the fray, however, she finds herself outsmarted by a bunch of balloons. About nine vehicles are prowling Chapple Lane, drivers’ heads swivelling left to right, looking for the balloons that mark “the whole house” where “everything must go!” Another day, I might pause ...
Most tourists who visit Peru’s Sacred Valley will whip around its famed capital, Cusco, then beeline it for iconic Incan ruin, Machu Picchu. Both are wondrous sights and tourists looking for photographs and souvenirs will return home satisfied. But for seekers rather than sightseers, the Sacred Valley also offers ayahuasca: a potent, hallucinogenic, shamanic healing medicine. My experience begins a month before Peru while visiting ...
“The ones with fly dung on them have been here a long time.” Patsy Price, owner of the Silverton Hotel with her husband Peter, is pointing to the squares of cardboard dangling from the pub’s ceiling. They sport quotes from famous wits like Winston Churchill and not-so-famous wits, one of whom wrote “the odds of finding a man in Silverton are good but the goods ...
Three hours into a 13-hour train trip through the Central West of New South Wales, warm scones with jam and cream are like fire-cooked camping food. Almost the best thing you’ve ever tasted. They’re served in the dining car of the Broken Hill Outback Explorer by an attendant who barely needs my order. “Scones, love? $6.” I must have scones written all over my face. They’ve ...
We’ve changed travel plans to come to the Virgen de la Candelaria festival in Puno, Peru, but on arrival I’m felled by altitude sickness. Puno doesn’t look or feel very high but at 3,830 metres above sea level it’s higher than both La Paz, Bolivia (at 3,640 metres) and Machu Picchu (2,430 metres). Barely in town two minutes, I barricade myself in a hotel room ...
Ancient jungles host rare animals, headhunting remnants and grassroots conservation programs on tropical Tetepare Island, a true lost world of the South Pacific. ‘Fortune Forest’ is emblazoned along the side of a logging ship hulking just off the coast of Rendova Island. Heavy machinery sprouts from its hull and dwarves a diminutive boat that passes by carrying visitors – soaked in warm sea spray – ...
It’s a hostile 43 degrees outside and even the locals are wilting. We’re at Broken Hill’s tourist information centre and having no trouble getting service. “Our quiet months are December, January and February,” says the representative. Ah, I think. You mean Summer. She needn’t dodge the obvious. Unlike most January holiday seekers who flock beachside to unwind, we’ve willingly turned toward the country’s centre, seeking a ...
My name is Kate Hennessy. I am a freelance arts and travel writer and music critic. I contribute to Guardian Australia, The Sydney Morning Herald/The Age, The Saturday Paper, The Australian, The Australian Financial Review, The Wire (UK), NME and more.